Same same but different

I flew with Air Asia from Bali to Bangkok on Friday 8^th November.  I noticed the inflight magazine asked passengers to vote via social media for QPR’s top performer!!!  Whoever gets the most votes will be Air Asia’s player of the month!!!  Eh?  I looked around.  There was no one on this flight who looked like they knew what QPR was.  What was the connection?  I then noticed a football shirt in the magazine with Air Asia slapped across the chest & realized who QPR’s sponsors must now be.  I still don’t know why Air Asia would be the sponsers.  In the most remote places across Asia I’ve seen lads wearing Chelsea, Arsonal, Man U & Liverpool tops but funilly enough not QPR.  Why would an airline operating the other side of the world, where most of its passengers don’t actually follow football sponser a “Who are they” team?  It seems I just can’t avoid being reminded of work!

 

I landed at the old Bangkok airport called Don Mueang this time & got the hour long train journey to Hua Lampong train sta for just 20 baht=40p.  I had been quoted 60-70 baht by the hotel in a meter taxi from the train sta.  Three taxis refused to take me on the meter.  Apparently, “traffic bad”.  Yeah, yeah.  If they take me for 200 baht the traffic will miraculously clear.  I wandered around the surrounding streets & found a tuk tuk driver who agreed to take me for 100 baht after he first asked for 200.  25 min later I was at the hotel.

 

It was odd being in Bangkok without the Odyssey Overlanders.  I stayed at The Wild Orchid Villa opposite Erawan House Hotel for £6 a night.  I can honestly describe the room as a cell.  No window, no wall sockets for charging lap top, no space.  Still it did the job for just the 2 nights I was staying.  I wandered around my favourite road = Soi Ram Buttri near the Khao San Road but more quiet.  Bought some more Jaico mosquito repellent as advised by a friend who used to live in Thailand, had a look around the 2^nd hand book shops & 2^nd hand market stall where I’d bought my snorkel & mask last time, ate at a street food vendors & had a good conversation with a retired couple from England at a street bar.  They travelled here every year on their way to Malaysia to avoid the UK winter 6 months.

 

On Sunday 10^th Nov I got on the Death Railway from Bangkok Noi Thon Buri train station to Kanchanaburi.  The journey took 3 hours & cost just 100 Baht=£2.

 

I’d booked myself into a nice hotel with swimming pool.  I discovered on Monday 11^th Nov it also did a massive buffet breakfast.  (Buffet breakfast=challenge to also fill up for lunch).  It was odd sitting there with mostly people from all over Asia whilst a musical version of Puff the Magic Dragon was playing over the restaurant speakers!  I have to admit, I’ve discovered on this journey hotels have very odd music taste.

I did not plan to be here on Remembrance Day.  But, as this town has one of the largest war cemeteries in the world containing the graves of 6982 POW’s who died building the Death Railway, I definitely wanted to pay my respects by attending the Armistice Day service.  It was memorable observing the 2 minute silence, listening to the Last Post, wearing

summer clothes, boiling in the sun, in deepest Thailand surrounded by 300 British people.  In the cemetery I contributed to the Royal British Legion of Thailand for my poppy this year with Thai Baht.  (For a lot more than any Bangkok taxi driver will ever get out of me).  There were ex British POW’s & widows all in their 80’s/90’s attending the service laying wreaths.  The British ambassador to Thailand was also present.  The Thai police, army & locals also paid their respects.

 

 

 

After the service I had a look around the Thailand-Burma Railway centre & then took a walk over the infamous Bridge over the River Kwai.  Time must heal because one of the first large tour groups I met taking photos & wandering across were Japanese.

 

 

Work was now coming into my mind & I had to spend a 4^th whole day of my journey sorting out some painful forms on Tue 12^th.

 

Wed 13^th Nov I did a tourist day tour with other backpackers.  I went swimming in Erawan waterfalls, visited the Hellfire Pass Death Railway cutting, walked along a significant stretch of the Death Railway & travelled a short distance on the train.  I also had a look around Kanchanburi’s night market where I got the best value Thai Green Curry ever.  25 Baht=50p.

 

 

On Thur 14^th Nov I travelled on the train from Kanchanaburi to the end of the line at Nam Tok.  This is the route of the Death Railway that’s still in use.  This actually crosses the Bridge over the River Kwai & took about 2.5 hours.

 

 

On Friday 15^th Nov I hired a cycle.  Went shopping for a new camera as my 2^nd of the trip was now packing up-it does not switch off & therefore does not charge to take more than about 3 pictures at a time!  I also popped into 2 more museums & cycled through the countryside to the other allied war cemetery called Chong Kai.

 

Sat 16^th was the train journey back to Bangkok.  I’ve done well.  Never been to Thailand until 19^th August this year & now I’ve been to Bangkok 4 times!

 

Sunday 17^th Nov I walked through a political rally at the Democracy monument (which has now turned into a riot shown on BBC World news.  Last time this happened the protesters shut down the airports), to the Golden Mount Stupa for good views of Bangkok.

 

 

I started my 2^nd Intrepid trip by meeting the other people also booked on it.  It was the yearly river festival called Loi Krathong.  I contributed to a handmade flower boat as the donation was to be matched by Intrepid & given to those in the Philippines suffering from the typhoon.  (I decided not to buy another camera as I want to research before I buy.  I’m making do with taking 3 photos per day until the end of my trip.  So, there are quite a few activities not photographed-it was raining in paradise anyway!  I’m thankful to Peter & Danielle for most of the following photos).

 

On Monday 18^th Nov we went as a group on the Chao Phraya River express boat to Wat Arun AKA Temple Of Dawn.  After, some people the headed to The Grand Palace.  By now I’m very “templed out” so headed back for a final wander around the Khao San Road area, had a Chang beer by the river, walked along my favourite road Soi Ram Buttri, sat in the restaurant Madame Mesuir as it sells Beer Lao & people watched for the afternoon.  We then all met up at the hotel & headed to Hua Lam Phong train station for an overnight train heading south.  I was leaving Bangkok for a fourth & final time.

 

 

If I ever get a Thailand train again, it’s not going to be in an air conditioned carriage!  Last time it broke.  There were no windows to open so we all poached.  This time it worked & was freezing.  Take my advice; all you need is a carriage where you can open the windows to get a warm breeze.

 

I did like the Intrepid group code for the state of toilets which became a discussion on the over-night train.  They were either the happy room or the unhappy room soon to become the happy ocean for me!

 

After another coach, shed-type-drop-off & mini bus pick up place that I’m convinced tourists on package holidays never experience as they consist of very unhappy rooms among other things, we arrived in Ao Nang, a beach resort next to Krabbi.  The weather was OK, so we sunbathed on the beach.  Bought beer from a beach vendor who ran off leaving his bucket!  Nearly got a sunset, but a few clouds on the horizon got in the way!

A new job?

 

 

Wednesday 20^th Nov I took my last Doxy anti-malaria tablet.  I’d been taking that every day since 24^th July.  I had no negative side effects from it.  I’m not sure if my broken sleep has been from that or just the fact I’m hardly ever sleeping in the same place.  I was lucky.  I’d never taken anti-malarial before.  I never bothered with a trial as I guessed side effects were rare & I’ve always been fine with tablets.  However, on this journey I’ve met so many people with stories of bad side effects – really bad indigestion, sun burn, nails falling out, hair falling out, and sickness.  I recommend a trial because it does seem to affect a lot of people.

 

Wed 20^th was also our 1^st taste of paradise.  We were off snorkelling to those fine white sand & crystal clear turquoise sea locations made famous in the film The Beach.  It is high season on the Andaman Coast.  I decided to spend my last 3 weeks away sunning myself with the fishes.

 

I don’t know if I’ll get to Nirvana-but Buddha was not on my side helping me!  The skies were grey.  I had discovered Thailand’s mass tourism industry.  There were about 50 speed boats containing about 30 tourists all whizzing around.  Snorkelling was OK but visibility not brill.  I did not see any turquoise sea.  I just imagined my time on the Malaysian Perhentian island at the start of October.  I only just saw the beach due to the amount of moored speed boats.

 

In my part of the world we often experience loud groups of American tourists.  In this part of the world it’s Chinese.  It must be the culture, but they seem very rude to me.  Once again I realize no one knows how to queue or actually realize they are not the only people present.

 

I have also learnt from my journey this year going through China, that this lot on holiday are very wealthy.  Probably more wealthy than I.  If not, they can’t even leave China!  I have a bit of resentment in my head that says “Before you go away laughing-help the people in dire poverty in your own country who have no choices whatsoever first.  Then you’ll have earnt your holiday & enjoyment.  Until then, keep quiet & comply like you do at home”.

 

On Thur 21^st Nov it was misty & raining ALL day.  However, it was nicely warm.  After shopping for supplies at the 7-11 & giving the stamps to our guides (I have discovered this is a big thing in Thailand), we travelled on a local boat to the Island called Ko Yao Noi.  This was quiet & off the beaten tourist track.  I swam in the sea in the rain.  It was still nice.  My roommate for this trip was Laura from Argentina.  We had a fab wooden bungalow with fantastic views (when the mist cleared).  We now both felt like we were on an Intrepid trip.  Like me she does not like air-con so we were very happy.  Unfortunately, some people had to put up with mice in the bed & rats in the roof.  We just had a snail in the bathroom.

 

 

On Fri 22^nd Nov we went on a snorkelling trip using a local fishing boat.  No crowds = great.  Trouble is no sun either.  It was raining again ALL day.  The visibility was zero so the snorkelling turned into swimming.  Our desert island picnic was in the rain.  It was still warm, but our 2 Thai guides were shivering.  The day was cut short & we returned to our bungalow.

 

 

On Sat 23^rd it was still raining & heavier than yesterday.  We travelled by speedboat to Phuket.  The 1^st boat was cancelled due to the conditions!  The 2^nd was rammed full with people who should have been on the first.  I was about the last to get on.  I was surprised the tourists on board were not wearing their buoyancy aids.  I’m a bit of a risk taker, but sensible.  I quickly put 1 on.  Out of the 40 people on the boat that looked like it should only carry 30, there were only about 5 of us wearing the available buoyancy aids.  I’m a good swimmer-but I can’t swim when knocked unconscious by flying luggage, flaying bodies or metal boat as it capsizes!  Take my advice-wear a lifejacket when at sea & if that’s not available a buoyancy aid.  At least your body will be recovered.

 

 

I did laugh at the passengers screaming.  I thought the boat was going to snap in half as it pounded through the swell especially as it was over weighted.  I got soaked with rain & sea spray even though the boat was sealed with a canopy!  Some people felt sick.  I don’t think it was sea sickness, I think it was from being frightened.

 

On solid ground (but far from dry land) on arrival in Phuket we popped into the gibbon rehabilitation centre in the pouring rain.  I discovered I’m actually an ape not a monkey because I have no tail.  It seems gibbons are not just my friends but family!  More advice – don’t EVER have your photo taken with a wild animal by someone who claims it’s their pet making money.  It really is not worth it.

 

That night at our destination called Karon Beach, Phuket we had a group meal at a sea food restaurant.  I’d seen the Thailand giant/jumbo/mantis prawns before in Ko Samui back in September.  This time I treated myself.

With Simone & Danielle choosing our dinner

 

 

On Sunday 24^th Nov I said goodbye to my final roommate Laura who was heading back home.  Danielle, Simone, Peter & I went to Phuket Old town.  The rain had stopped.  We did a walking tour taking in my last ‘bit of culture’ of my 8 month travels.

 

 

We spent the afternoon on the beach.  White sky today & bright.  However, we could not swim in the sea.  Red no swimming flags all along the beach due to the dangerous swell.

 

There was a new culture shock to encounter.  What?  You might think.  It was Russia.  Karon beach is full of Russian holiday makers.  It is weird sat on a beach in Thailand surrounded by Russians.  Lots of signs & menus are written in Russian.  According to Danielle’s dive instructor there are direct flights from Moscow to Phuket.  I love it because they are more pale white than the Brits!  I’m looking very glowing in comparison to everyone else on the beach.

 

The red flags had disappeared on Tue 26^th.  I walked along the beach & swam at all the 4 life guard stations marked by the yellow & red flags.  (There were no lifeguards in the towers.  Instead they were busy hawking deck chairs, cocktails, jet skis, banana & parachute rides.  Still, I guess that by swimming within the flags I’m covered by my insurance).

 

On Friday 29^th Nov I did a snorkel tour now the sea had calmed down for a few days hopping it would be good visibility.  The agent gave me 1000 Baht discount when I booked, without me even bartering.  Instead of £45, it was now £25.  This was too good to be true & it was.

 

Not only was I back in the mass tourism trade (I was prepared for that), the guides became salesmen.  Quick to point out in his broken English the tea/coffee on arrival (in minute cups) was free.  Also, water, fruit, Pepsi & lunch was free.  So was the snorkel/mask-I should think so as it is a snorkelling trip!

 

However, fins were 100 Baht.  Over the microphone to all 200 of us “I advise you take fins.  You can swim down & see more.  I snorkel every day & it helps.  Only 100 Baht”.  I have now become a snorkel expert & he was spouting rubbish.  Fins should be banned from snorkel trips as the coral gets damaged.  We don’t go into the deep to dive down like divers – in the deep snorkelers would only see blue water.  Most snorkelers including me don’t know how to use fins so they are more of a hindrance.

 

Again over the microphone “While you wait you can shop in our store.  Discount just for you”.  Oh shut up mate.  Lets get to the boats so we can start before it begins raining.  I wanted to get to the 1^st of the 3 snorkel sites before the other thousands arrived.

 

Still on the microphone “Today sea is very rough.  Itinerary change.  We only go 1 snorkel site.  But, we go 2 beaches”.  What?  The sea is calm man.  What are you wittering about?

 

1^st stop was the snorkel site.  This was OK.  We were there for 45 minutes & you definitely did not need fins!  Next was a beach not listed on the itinerary?  In broken English “Sand free, chairs & shade 80 Baht [it was cloudy].  Here you can banana boat & walk under the sea for extra cost”.  Had we been taken to his mates business?  The beach was nice & I swam in the sea.

 

Next stop was lunch.  A buffet which was nice.

 

Then our last stop of the day – for 3 hours!!!  On another beach.  This time there were no other activates.  I could see parents trying to keep the children occupied.  I found some rocks & floated around with my snorkel – into divers who looked like they were doing a learn to scuba course.

 

As we got back to port the guide thanked us all very much for choosing his company, produced a mask box & placed a 100 Baht note from his pocket into it blatantly asking for crew tips.  Out the 30 of us on the boat I saw about 3 people put something in.  Like me, everybody is becoming sick of the tourist conveyer belt.  Western prices but not a western service.

 

On my long journey this year I can honestly say in comparison to the rest of Asia Phuket has been the rip-off capital closely followed by Bali.  Still a little cheaper than home, but not worth it.  The biggest con is the price of day trips, followed by taxis/tuk-tuk prices (esp as the only 2 alternatives are buses to & from Old Phuket Town taking 2 hours to get from A-B or hiring your own car/moped) & finally followed by hawkers who don’t barter down much yet set a high price for crap to begin with.  According to the Thai people it’s the “Same same but different”.  They even flog t-shirts with that phrase written on them.  Danielle described the gentle thanking hands together Buddhist Thais trying to flog stuff as smiling assassin’s.  I’m surprised the Russians but up with it.

 

I’ve spent most of my time in Karon Beach swimming in the sea.  It’s been a grey to white sky, sometimes with rain.  Unfortunately, I have not experienced the crystal clear turquoise sea as seen in the film The Beach or even seen 1 sunset. 

 

However, it’s been a good end to a fantastic 8 months of travel.  Hot & bright.  The large waves are fun & just after they break it’s like being in a Jacuzzi with all the bubbles.  The sea is warm.  I’ve got a tan.  Beer O’clock has been about 6pm each night in anticipation of a sunset.

The best day for the weather

 

 

It’s now Wednesday 4^th December.  There are hardly any Christmas decorations & I’ve heard no Christmas songs which all adds to the illusion that my body clock still thinks it’s summer-July/August as I’ve been in very hot climates since the end of May (with the exception of the Tibetan Plateau in July).

Intrepid cannot.  I will get around the price of those tuk-tuks.  Moving to my penultimate hotel with the help of staff

 

 

I’ve had good accommodation & good buffet breakfasts.  At my penultimate hotel I found a surprise roof terrace & thank Danielle-who also liked Beer Lao-for listening to me droning on about my past 8 months on the terrace whilst star gazing.

 

 

My return to work is getting closer & I was very much reminded as I moved into my last hotel on Sun 1^st Dec.  I’m in room 111.  As the receptionist gave me the key he commented “lucky number”!  I’m not so sure.  Awkwardly he could not find the room as he helped me with my bags.  Eventually, we found it.  It’s a good room.  Has a kettle, power shower, fast free wi-fi & lovely view.  I’m talking metaphors now where only a few of you reading this will understand – in comparison to what I’ve seen this year it’s not that bad but I’m sure there are better.  I’m still striving to find the better.

 

 

 

I'm not looking forward to returning to work.  However, I'm not as upset as I thought I would be about ending my fantastic 8 months travel adventure.  I am actually fed up with the constant packing/unpacking & moving.  It will be nice to be back in one place with family/friends.

 

I'm going to enjoy Christmas & New Year as I'm still officially on my career break.  So, I'm hoping to feel I'm on holiday - lots of nice wine (I've had none of that since leaving the UK), gin & tonics, food, TV, lazing about.

 

So, here I am at my last hotel where I am now typing this post – I have actually caught up - on a lovely balcony overlooking the sea with a Chang beer & I'm beginning to feel I actually want to return to the UK.  Mainly because I want to start making changes for the better.

 

 

                                           

I pack for a final time & start my relatively short journey home tomorrow evening– Thursday 5^th Dec as I fly from Phuket at 5.45am local time on Friday 6^th Dec to Kuala Lumpur with Malaysia Airlines.  Then at 10.35am KL time I catch a connecting flight to Heathrow.  It will be weird flying over what took me 4 months to travel overland in just 13hours 40 minutes.  I’m scheduled to land at Heathrow 4.15pm UK time.  Friday 6^th December will be a very long day, much longer than 24 hours!

 

When back in the UK I intend to type more blog posts as I’d like to give some experienced advice to people doing this journey in the future, share my thoughts about this journey & hopefully be able to type that this journey has helped me make some positive changes.

 

Until then I’m going to enjoy the heat, finish my beer, swim in the sea & hotel infinity pool.